Archive for the Dog Training Videos Category

How To Teach Your Labrador Puppy Not To Pull On The Leash

If you want a dog that walks nice beside you and doesn’t pull on the leash and has a nice heel, then this is the dog training video for you.

The desire for the dog to stay next to you has to come from inside the dog and cannot be achieved by using harsh corrective measures. In the beginning we give the dog an over whelming compelling reason why staying next to you is better than doing anything else.

As you will notice I take one step infrequently, lure the dog with me, my food loaded hand right on the puppy’s nose, then ask the dog to sit and repeatedly pay the dog with food. Watch how much and how fast I pay the dog. If you do any less the dog or puppy will get distracted or bored. This is a literal one step at a time process. We keep this process up until the dog learns self restraint, until it learns that being next to you is better than anything else that could possibly happen.

When the dog is older and more mature we can start the dog on training collars but i usually start that when the dog is about 10-11 months old and that is a slow gradual process. Dog training takes time and patience. It’s kinda like painting a picture.

As you watch the video notice how I try to keep the dog’s head up. If the dog’s head is up that means the nose is not down sniffing for distractions. Remember to talk to your dog. Tell him or her that she is doing a good job. When that head comes up plop some tasty food in that mouth.

Over time you will be able to take more and more steps as the dog develops trust that you will deliver the food. In the beginning it is a literal one step at a time process.

How To Teach Your Puppy To Lie Down Using A Training Table

Teaching Your Dog Or Puppy The Long Down

Teaching Your Dog Or Puppy The Long Down

Well It’s Tuesday morning and Murphy and I are back at it. You see he walks himself up the ramp, I’ll ask him to lay down and he plops himself right down. We are using my new dog training table. The long down is exactly what we are working on in this dog training video.

You can see I walk away then return to the dog, walk away then return to the dog repeatedly. My goal is to desensitize the dog to my body movements so we can get longer and longer downs. At 0:31 he sits up but then I ask him to down and he corrects himself nicely so we continue training.

You will notice I never turn away from the dog as I want to keep the connection strong between the dog and myself. As you do this incorporate some different body movements such as crouching down. That is a big trigger for dogs.

Our labrador puppy is doing really good, you can see how all the training has been paying off. He is only 16 weeks old. The training table does help a lot as I walk all around, return pay the dog, crouch down, pay the dog. As the puppy turns into a dog he will stay in his command longer and longer with ever increasing distractions. That is what we do here. We get dogs to learn the 4 or 5 basic dog training commands–SOLID. Later as they get more proficient we can incorporate more. So if you enjoy being able to take your dog everywhere you go, this is how you do it.

Now we have him walk himself down the ramp, jump up on the placeboard and have himself a little seat.

This little labrador retriever puppy is in our day training program. The owner drops the dog off in the morning, I work him all day, then the owner picks him up a few hours later.

Murphy Learns To Sit And Stay

How To Teach A Labrador Puppy To Sit And Stay, And Stay, And Stay….

So here we are, Murphy and I working on the long sit. Otherwise known as the Sit/Stay. I never say “Stay” however. It is a waste of time. As you can see the dog is sitting longer and longer and I am able to get further and further away every time we practice this. We do this about three times a day and we spend about two to five minutes each training session. You want to make your sessions short, fun and you want to make them succesfull. Surely and gradually you will get further and further away from your dog and it will sit longer and sit through bigger distractions as time goes by and as your puppy turns into a dog. If Murphy and I continue this, and we will, it is highly unlikely that Murphy will ever get up out of a sit. As the dog gets older and more mature we will add ever increasing levels of distraction.

As you watch me do this you will see that I never really turn my back on the dog. That is so we can stay connected. If I turn my back the dog will perceive me as leaving and it is programmed to follow me. So if I walk backward I am just moving. My goal is to desensitize the dog to my movements so I can walk all over the place and the dog won’t move out of a sit.

If you keep up with Murphy and me you will watch us do the same thing with the “Down” and the “Stand” or otherwise known in the hunting world as the “Whoa”

The owners of this labrador retriever have hired me to train their dog for basic dog obedience and we are going to get this puppy started on some wing work to start a solid retrieve for duck hunting.

Canine Tutors, San Jose Dog Training, Puppy Training

Most dogs especially puppies when they are first starting out just follow the food. Here in this clip I am trying to teach this dog to lay down for longer and longer periods so I position myself and the food as to encourage the dog to stay down. Keep the food lower than the dog’s head. This way the dog will naturally stay in a down position longer and longer. It will make training the down easy and you won’t give as many mixed signals. Keep the food low and your dog will stay low.

To get the dog to sit I tap his paws with my feet and he pops right up. Then I keep the food up high so he can follow the food and keep his head up and stay in a sit. Remember dogs will always do the behavior right if you don’t give them a chance to do it wrong. You can see this dog is catching on quickly and in short order I can keep the food at a higher level and the dog stays in a down. The other thing I do is train the dog on all sorts of surface areas.

Last thing. Did you see how the dog went from enthusiastically jumping on the place boards to just lying down on the ground right next to it? That’s when you know your dog is done for the moment. If that were my dog I would kennel or crate him for and hour or so then train for about 5 more minutes. Do that a few times per day. When you see your dog start to loose steam and enthusiasm, that is when it is time to stop and give it a break. If you keep going then it becomes tedious and stressful.

Canine Tutors, San Jose Dog Training A Labrador Puppy

Canine Tutors, San Jose Dog Training A Labrador Puppy

Hey what’s up everybody it’s Ashley Starling with Canine Tutors Dog Training and today we are working this young puppy on some basics, we are getting him up on the placeboard and teaching him the difference between “sit” and “down”. If you have watched my previous videos you will see how I’ve been working with this same young dog and I was using a lot of body english to get him to lay down and to get him to sit and now he is working mostly off of just voice commands. That is what I call a learning transition. All this takes is consistancy and patience along with a clear message when communicating with your dog.

If you train the way I do and you have a dog that’s about the same age then you are probabily at about the same level, or maybe even a bit further or just a bit behind, but you’re probably right in the ball park. This is a nice easy, non-stressful way to train your dog and it produces reliable, repeatable and consistant performance even around the most severe distractions.

I go through the behaviors at 10-20 repetitions at a time ending my day with 30 repetitions per behaviors per day. If you watch closely you might catch a few mistakes but that is bound to happen. You and your dog will recover. I leave the bloopers in there so you won’t feel like you are falling behind.

One thing to remember when you are working your dog is that the dog is going to follow the food so that’s why in this video you can see I’m down at mouth level because we are working on the “down” I’m going to make it easy for him to follow the food. This will encourage him to stay laying down.

Teach Your Puppy To Sit And Pay Attention

Teach Your Puppy To Sit And Pay Attention

In this video we are teaching out 14 week old labrador puppy to sit and look at his handler. I want this puppy to look me right in the face. When your dog is looking at you, then it isn’t looking at anything else. And that is perfection. I keep him really close and tight to the box. Since he is a young dog we only have so much time before he starts to poop out so squeeze in as many repetitions as you can.

You can see I am walking around him in a tight circle. That is for controlled distraction. As I walk in a circle I hold my hand with a treat in it right on his nose keep his nose up. Nose up = butt down.

You will see my just stand there and wait for him to look me in the face. When he does I will mark it with the word “Good” then pay the dog. In the beginning he will look at me by accident then after time he will understand looking at my face gets him paid. If you are having trouble getting started you can put a hotdog in your teeth so your dog can plainly see it, then when it looks at your face pay your dog. Another thing you can do is tuck a toy under your chin for the same idea.

Our puppy starts to get a little lost there for a bit so what I suggest is keep moving around the box so that it is between you and the dog at all times. If he wants to get close to me he must get on top of the box.

Thank you for watching and keep it fun and positive!–Ashley

Basic Obedience From The Beginning With A Puppy

 

 

Teaching A Puppy Basic Obedience From The Beginning

Today we are working basic obedience with this  six month old Golden Retriever puppy. You are seeing the first ever attempt at teaching this dog to lay down. You will notice that I do this a little differently than some other dog trainers you might have seen. I like this method because it helps keep the dogs fore legs steady throughout all the movements of the Sit, Down and Stand. It looks better and it’s more efficient. This way the dogs hips are tucked up undernieth when it lays down.

You can see this dog is really highly food motivated. She is right on the food hand.

The dog training video shows us working a drill where we do the behavior over and over. The magic number is 10,000 repetitions. 1,000 reps a month for 10 months. That’s 10,000 repetitions of every behavior you wish to teach. 

At 1:17 in the puppy training video I place my hand on the dogs back to help it stay down as I quickly move my food hand away from the dogs face and immediately return it. The lesson is the food will go away, and it will return. Over time the intervals will increase and the dog will learn to be steady and patient.

At 2:18 in the dog video I stand up and start to move around a tiny bit. This is another level of distraction. We are teaching the dog that I will eventually move around all over the place but you stay right there as I will be right back. We are desensithinsisng the dog to our movements. I start by just moving my feet around just a bit. the whole time still paying the dog with tiny pieces of hot dog.

Distractions can be measured in levels 1-10. Start at level 1 and every month as you get your 1,000 repetitions in you can level up another distraction level.

Not every bay area dog owner has the time for total complete basic obedience dog training and some of my clients’ time would be better spent working rather than training. That’s why we have introduced Day Training for your dog. We will pick up your dog and bring it to our 5,000 sq ft. location, train it, get the reps in and drop the dog off back to you.

How To Crate Train Your Older Puppy

How To Crate Train Your Older Puppy

This dog is a six month old female Golden Retriever doing some day training with us here at Canine Tutors. This is the first time we have introduced the crate to her and as you can see in the dog training video she is highly food motivated.

Notice how I have the crate and the dog aligned. The door to the crate is open and it is behind me so the dog cannot accidently slam the door shut. When the dog walks out of the crate you will see me re-align the dog so the crate is only six inches away, easily within eyesight.

I am going to use food to motivate and encourage her to go into the dog crate. You can see I am dropping the food into the crate through the bars. You can see she is a bit hesitant to go all the way into the crate but within just a few minutes she will walk all the way in. I want her to be confident that when she walks into the crate she won’t hear the door slam shut behind her. If we do that it would be hard to get her back in there.

As the puppy video progresses you can she just walks in there with more confidence. Walking all the way in is a learning transition. At about this time I will stop putting food in the crate and start to reward when she walks in and present the food when she turns to face me while still in the crate. At this point she can freely walk in and out of the crate. I still don’t shut the door at this point.

The reason I want her to like the crate is that as time goes on I am going to use the dog crate to teach her how to lay down, how to sit and a host of other dog training behaviors. I will also use the crate to manage an untrained puppy.

The second learning transition that you can see is the dog starts to stay in the crate and not rush out. So now what I am going to teach  her is that the longer she is in the crate, the more she gets paid. I would like yo to notice how in the beginning she really mugs my hands for the food then within a few minutes she stops. When that happens she is learning that her behavior gets her paid, not the guy holding the food.

Lastly, at the end of the puppy training video you can see that she comes halfway out of the crate, realizes that the money comes from her being in the crate and demonstrates another learning transition as she backs up in reverse to back into the crate. That was so good we had to stop right there for that training moment.

Teaching Your Puppy To Lay Down

Teaching Your Puppy To Lay Down

In the short puppy training video above you can see that I am teaching this 12 week old labrador retriever the “down”. Many of my dog training clients have very busy work and life schedules so I can do most of the training for them as long as they get the dog to me.

When I teach the down with such a young puppy like this I will start with the dog standing and use the “push” method. That is I hold the food in my hand and kind of gently push the food hand at the dogs nose and down at a slight angle. In order for the dog to get comfortable and get the food it has to push back and lower it’s body. If you keep your hand steady the nose and mouth will stay straight and the dog will down correctly.

Here is why you want to do it this way. Notice the front feet don’t move much if at all. What ever position you put the dog in you want those front feet to stay put. If you start teaching the down with your dog in the Sit position then the dog has no choice but to extend it’s front feet. If you do this enough times the dog will end up moving across the grass little by little as the front feet keep getting extended. By having the front feet stay put means having the dog stay put.

Lastly, by teaching your dog the Down in this fashion you will notice that the dog’s hips are tucked up under the dog as in a “ready” position. The dog is not looking lazy lying on it’s side. It looks like a pro. Alert and ready for quick action. From this proper position your dog can effortlessly raise it’s body to either a Sit or a Stand.

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